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Anatomy of a Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Filed under Tips & Tricks by staff on March 26, 2010 at 11:49 pm {no comments}

With eBay Motors, CarFax will run the Vehicle identification number for you in order to provide a plethora of useful information. With the VIN, CarFax will return:

Has the car been in a severe accident
Is the car a lemon?
Has the car been flooded?
Has the car experienced odometer problems?
How many owners has the car had?
Is the car a high mileage car?
Has the car been used as a rental car?
Has the car been used as a fleet car (taxi, etc) ?
Has the car ever been declared a total loss?
Have the airbags been deployed?
Has the car experienced frame damage?
Has the car been regularly maintained?

All this from a single number, or what’s come to be known as a car’s DNA. The (V)ehicle (I)dentification (N)umber is located below the windshield, on the driver’s side, above the steering wheel. Many people also get their car’s VIN etched onto the various windows of the car, as well. Other common locations are the firewall, radiator support bracket, left hand iner wheel arch, steering column, guarantee & maintenance booklet, machined pad on the front of the engine, driver’s door or post on passenger’s side and component parts (engine, frame, etc)

Anatomy of a Vehicle Identification Number

FIRST CHARACTER: Country Code

Country Code: 1 for the USA and 2 and 3 for Canada and Mexico, respectively. All cars starting with 1, 2 or 3 are DUTY-FREE in accordance with NAFTA.

SECOND CHARACTER: Manufacturer

A: Audi, Mitsubishi, Range Rover, American Motors, Sterling, Alfa Romeo, Maserati, and Jaguar

B: Dodge

C: Chrysler, Checker, Delorian.

D: Daihatsu and Mercedes

E: Eagle

F: Ford, some Subaru’s (Forrester & Impreza), Fiat, Peugeot, Renault and Ferrari.

G: General Motors (Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Buick, Cadillac, GMC, Saturn)

H: Honda and Acura

J: Jeep

L: Lancia, Daewoo and Lincoln

M: Hyundai and Mini

N: Infinity, Nissan, Kia and Ford Aspires (possibly: Ford Festiva and some Toyotas)

P: Porshe and Plymouth

S: Isuzu, Saab, Subaru and Suzuki

T: Toyota and Lexus

U: Aro

V: Volkswagen, Volvo

X: Yugo

Y: Mazda

Z: Mercury

2: Avanti

3: American General (Hummer)

8: Chevrolet Luv and Geo Storm

9: Acura

CHARACTERS 3-8: Manufacturer to Reflect Body, Car-Line, etc.

The Third Character will represent the Vehicle Type or Manufacturing Division in Most Cases. The next 5 Characters will represent body type, engine type, etc. etc. All of these characters are used at the Manufacturers discretion.

The Eighth Digit, starting in about 1980, has often been used to describe the size of the engine displacement.

CHARACTER 9: Check Digit

A Check digit to ensure the validity of the VIN. The Department of Transportation came up with a dandy little Check-SUM relying on the 9th character.

FOR INFORMATION ON HOW TO CALCULATE YOUR CAR’S VIN NUMBER AGAINST THE CHECK DIGIT, CHECK HERE.

Remember though, even if the car is stolen and the VIN forged or incorrect, there’s a 1 in a 11 shot that the VINs will match up anyways. The random odds are obviously limited by the number of possible Check Digits.

CHARACTER 10: MODEL YEAR

Code	Year	Code	Year	Code	Year	Code	Year
A =	1980	L =	1990	Y =	2000	A =	2010
B =	1981	M =	1991	1 =	2001	B =	2011
C =	1982	N =	1992	2 =	2002	C =	2012
D =	1983	P =	1993	3 =	2003	D =	2013
E =	1984	R =	1994	4 =	2004	E =	2014
F =	1985	S =	1995	5 =	2005	F =	2015
G =	1986	T=	1996	6 =	2006	G =	2016
H =	1987	V =	1997	7 =	2007	H =	2017
J =	1988	W =	1998	8 =	2008	J =	2018
K =	1989	X =	1999	9 =	2009	K =	2019

11th CHARACTER: Final Assembly Plant

Each manufacturer has it’s own series for the Final Assembly Plant Digit, but the digit will be standardized within each company.

12th to 17th CHARACTERS: Vehicle’s Actual Serial Number.

These final characters are your vehicle’s actual serial number, and no two vehicles of the same model, produced in the same plant, with the same engine block, should have the same serial number.

Step By Step Checklist: Before Bidding

Filed under Step By Steps by staff on March 26, 2010 at 6:22 pm {one comment}

There are a few steps you should follow before even thinking about bidding on eBay Motors.

Check To Make Sure The Owner Will Ship To Canada:

Seems fairly self-explanatory and eBay has measures in place to ensure you don’t bid on a vehicle that’s not available in your country, but it’s better safe than sorry.

This, along with the all important PAYMENT METHODS, are located to the right of the listing.

Paying with CASH may seem easier, but even with an additional written contract, you’re putting yourself at risk.

Understand Where The Vehicle is Located

Every jurisdiction, especially the United States of America, has a different amounts of red-tape. As discussed here, when buying and importing a vehicle from America, there can be quite a few unforeseen costs.

Ask for the Vehicle Model and/or VIN Number

After you acquire it, make absolutely sure that the vehicle is ADMISSIBLE to CANADA.

Contact a Local Dealership and Ask Whether Or Not There Are Any Outstanding Recall Orders and Their Estimated Cost

Recall Orders are nothing but trouble, although you can still save money. If you can avoid purchasing a car with an outstanding recall notice, you’ll save money. Many manufacturers require that all work be done at their authorized dealerships — this hikes up prices, more than a couple cents.

Check To See What Minor Fixes Are Required For Compliance (and their Estimated Cost)

Maybe you’ll need some day-time running lights, or Child Tether additions. The Electronic Immobilization System update denoted by [EIS] will also set you back more than a couple bucks.

Discuss With the Seller His History of Selling to Canadians

Has the seller sold to Canada before?
Has he experienced problems?
Is he a dealership?
Can he get you temporary tags for his State?
Can he put you in touch with someone that’ll facilitate a transfer of ownership as your power of attorney.

The Actual Car & What You Should Know

First thing you should do is Check the VIN number against a registry. eBay Motors has an agreement with CarFax that’ll get you free or cheap reports on the vehicle you’re interested in purchasing.
Secondly, GOOGLE: “Common Problems With……” and Insert the Name of your car. You’ll find the same problems occur over and over again, even if they’re just as simple as quickly fading mirrors. Make a note of these problems and ask the seller about that particular problem. REMEMBER: If you don’t ask, they don’t have to tell. Get their answers in writing or at the very least via eBay’s messaging system.

You’ll Want Pictures and Confirmation of…

The more pictures, the better. If someone isn’t willing to take decent pictures of a car with a 20K price-tag, don’t even bother — Just walk away, as painful as it may be. While Feedback is king (never buy from someone with low-feedback unless you’re absolutely certain,) Photos are a close second
PICTURES OF TIRE WEAR: Alignment and Suspension Issues will show up first here. What kind of tires are on the vehicle? Name brand? Mismatched?
PICTURES OF SEALS: Seals around the Windshield and Doors do a better job telling the story of a car than shiny photos of the exterior.
AN ANGLED PHOTO OF THE CAR THAT SHOWS BODY LINES: You need pictures of both sides of the car. The Body Lines should be STRAIGHT! Damage often shows through on these angled shots. Are there any ripples in the reflection?
QUALITY COLOUR IN THE PHOTOS: You need to be able to tell whether or not the COLOR of the Quarter-Panel matches the Fender, etc. The color should be the same all the way through.
HIGH QUALITY PHOTOS OF GAPS BETWEEN DOORS: Uneven Gaps often mean the car has been in an accident and since repaired.
SHOW ME THE SMOKE: This is often-overlooked, but ask the seller to take a picture of the car’s exhaust while running. Does it look good or does it look like she’s burnin’ oil?
PICTURE OF THE ENGINE: Your basically test of how the engine looks and upkeep will do. Remember to always consider the odometer readings when considering photos ( Is the engine-top overly dirty? Are the battery terminals badly corroded? Maybe even ask for a shot of the Oil-tank with the cap off and in plain view. You can clean the outside, but build-ups are much tougher to clean out and off the underside of the cap.
PICTURES OF THE BRAKES AND SHOCK ABSORBERS: Maybe this isn’t feasible, maybe it is.
The INTERIOR: Any noticeable wear on the driver’s side? What about the Steering wheel? Does it fit with the odometer readings?
THE DASH With The Lights On: To ensure all electrical systems are functioning, and the odometer reads as reported.
The TRUNK and OPEN DOORS: Great places to spot fixes and multiple paint jobs. Always request these tricky areas.
THE INTERIOR WITH THE SEAT BELTS FASTENED: Knowing that these things work is a good thing, eh?
A General Interior and Exterior Shot showing Car Condition — Make Sure the Windshields are in tact and the Mirrors are in good condition. Just an overall feel for the car.

Agreeing to a Third-Party Inspection

Ebay partnered up with Canadian Tire and various Shops in the USA in order to provide these services at a discounted cost. The benefit of getting it done through eBay is that it’s on-record — If someone screws you, you can fall back to eBay and their limited $50,000 Insurance Policy.

Figure Out Everything Before You Even Bid

Follow through every step of the import procedure and know what it’s going to cost. Understand the added costs and your responsibility as the buyer.

How Exactly Is The Payment System Going To Work?

There’s a sweetspot for each car deal and it’s your job to find it. Each party has to balance the risk of Deposit vs. Faxing Over a Copy of the Title for Import/Export purposes.

Work with the dealer and see if you can agree to a number that works for both of you. You’ll want to pay this original deposit through a redeemable source, just in case the seller is less than trustworthy. A quick call to the credit card company or paypal generally gets the job done in case of fraud.

Importing From The USA: Insurance, Plates and Problems

Filed under Importing From USA by staff on March 26, 2010 at 4:30 pm {one comment}

You’ve found the perfect car and the question now becomes, “How the hell do I get it from Point A to Point B?”

You’ll want to do a rough estimate of costs and set-backs before committing to the car, but ultimate you’ll have to have the title and corresponding ownership papers faxed to you in order to complete the processes below.

Ready For The Red Tape:

Insurance can be an absolutely agonizing process. For some unknown reason, various insurance companies aren’t all that happy handing out a Temporary Insurance Binder to those without the car-in-hand.

Normally with a bit of sweet talking and some explaining: “The Car’s in Idaho, I’m in Ontario — How else should I be doing this? Three Trips? Four Trips?” Your insurance company will see the light of day.

REMEMBER: Make sure you are COVERED IN ALL OF THE STATES YOU WILL BE DRIVING THROUGH!

After insurance is obtained, the next question is,

Where In The United States Are You Buying The Car From?

Each State will have different regulations, but it’s best to simply view it in terms of how many States you’ll have to travel through (if you’re driving the car back to Canada)

Driving Through Multiple States And Purchasing From A Non-Dealer:

This is the most complicated of all the situations. If you’re purchasing from a Dealer, they’ll often get the temporary plate process started for you. However, there are quite a few eBay sellers that do not own a dealership: that’s what eBay’s based on, remember.

In almost all cases, you will need a temporary plate for each state that you plan on driving through. To make matters worse, many of the States require that you set foot in a DMV office.

It’s always best to check the state’s website, to see if things can be made easier (they probably can’t.) Scoot over to DMVANSWERS.com to see what rules apply to each state.

You should be able to get a 3-Day permit for each state without too much out-of-pocket expenses.

REMEMBER: You’re either going to have to appoint a Brokerage Firm as your Power of Attorney or spend some time in the great state of *insert state here* in order to complete the Out-Of-State Title Transfer.

Driving Through Multiple States After Purchasing From A Dealer

The dealer will often start this process up for you and have the temporary plates ready to go as soon as you set foot in the dealership. Dealers will also have access to trust-worthy brokerage firms, and while it might cost you a little bit extra, the time saved will be well worth it.

TIP: Before purchasing from an American Dealer, ask first whether or not he sells Internationally. Secondly, ask him how his previous sales to Canada have went. Finally, ask him for additional expected costs and whether he’ll cover them (he won’t) or you’ll be responsible for them. Agree on prices PRIOR to bidding on the car. The Brokerage Firm may also be able to assist you with State-to-State temporary licenses.

Driving Through A Border-State After Purchasing From a Non-Dealer

Only one temporary plate much be purchased making the task quite a bit easier. The possibility of multiple trips also helps ease the stress of importing a car into Canada.

TIP: ASK the seller how long he’ll be willing to hold the car after purchase while you work through the paperwork. While most sellers see no problem keeping the car for a couple weeks while you steadily work through the paperwork, they’re will always be special circumstances. If the seller is selling the car because he’s moving or just wants to get rid of it ASAP.

Driving Through A Border-State After Purchasing From a Dealer

The easiest of all options, right here. Dealers that sell to Canada often will be able to complete the write-up in a snap. You’ll still need to look after the insurance side of things, but the dealer will often take care of the rest.

REMEMBER: Many dealers are very hesitant to sell to Canadians, so make sure your intentions are clear before placing a bid.

REMEMBER: Many dealers in BORDER STATES cannot sell various new models (Toyotas, especially) to Canadians as mandated by the manufacturer. A slightly used car is a different story, but the dealer’s hands are often tied on new cars.

A Canadian’s Guide To Purchasing and Importing A Car From The USA

Filed under Importing From USA by staff on March 26, 2010 at 4:17 am {one comment}

Are you sick of the deadly winter mixture of road-salt and slush eating away at the body and bones of your car? You’ve splurged for annual RustCheck (there goes another hundred bucks) and given your baby a wash in the dead of winter, but who’s to say the owner of the car that you’re interested in pampered his baby too?

Corrosion and the corresponding oxidization (rust) always seem to find a way to start out-of-sight before gnawing away the steel that holds your car together. Remember, if the seller doesn’t notice the rust he has absolutely no legal obligation to report it to you.

The Answer: Purchase from the land of “It’s a Dry Heat.”

The Southern States, especially the desert states, are renown for their power of preservation. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be savvy, but rather it’s just an extra layer of insurance.

Sometimes, the car you’re looking for just isn’t available in Canada.

Making Sure The Car is Admissible

Prepare yourself for fees, fees and even more fees. However, while these fees will add up, you’ll probably still save money — if you calculate them before hand.

The first step is making sure your newly purchased car is admissible. Take an e-stroll over to Transport Canada. The link you’ll want to check out are the RIV import guidelines located here.

For CARS that are 15-years or older, you’re good to go. All you need to do is:

Importer must be able to prove vehicle is fifteen (15) years old or older, determined by month and year of manufacture.

Section 2 — GENERAL

If the vehicle is newer, you’ll encounter a few common problems that will not stop you from admitting a car into Canada, but they will add to your costs.

REMEMBER: You Have 45 Days from the date of import to conform to the RIV rules. Check the RIV’s website to locate a certification centre near you.

For cars made before 2000, your car may need adaptations to the child tether anchorage systems in addition to the standard Metric Odometer and Speedometer labels and Daytime running lights retrofit required on most American cars.

In September of 2007, Canada’s Motor Vehicle Safety Standards begin to require that all new non-emergency cars be equipped with an Electronic Immobilization System that meets Canadian standards. Many recent cars, especially 2008 model-years, contain an Electronic Immobilization System that has been installed by the manufacturer but doesn’t meet Canadian Standards. These are anti-theft devices that disable portions of the car’s electrical system, making theft more difficult. A list of cars that pass this standard is available here.

Importing cars with OUTSTANDING RECALL ORDERS is also asking for trouble. Whether or not the car’s admissible will depend, but added costs are a certainty. Many manufacturers will hold you ransom, requiring that all modifications be done at a certified dealership before releasing the car and the required recall clearance notice.

TIP: With the VIN number, give your local dealership a ring. If they’re not in a terrible mood (oh, boy) they’ll be happy to look up whether or not the vehicle your interested in has a Recall Order and maybe even an estimated cost.

Please Skip to the Bottom to check for the latest list (March. 2009) of INADMISSIBLE passenger cars.

Registrar of Imported Vehicles (RIV) FEES:

In order to import a car into Canada, you must arrange to pay RIV Fees in advance or have your credit or interac card ready.

The current fee system requires a $195 fee that’s taxed GST and QST if imported through Quebec. A provincial sales tax is also applied to vehicles imported through the Atlantic Provinces (8% in Newfoundland, New Brunswick & Nova Scotia. If imported through any other station, the fee is simply $195+GST. If you’re importing a car for parts, the fee is reduced to $70 plus applicable taxes.

A complete list of RIV payment methods are available here.

Other Applicable Fees

Duties and Taxes – If the car is made in North America, the car is free of duty. However, you’ll still be required to pay the GST.
AIR CONDITIONING TAX — $100 will be assessed to cars that are imported into Canada from the United States and contain an air-conditioning unit.
The Green Levy or Excise Tax — If you have a Car, SVU, or Van with a weighted average fuel consumption of 13 litres per 100km and was put into service after March 19th, 2007 your vehicle will be taxed based on weighted fuel consumption:

At least 13, but less than 14 litres per 100km: $1000
At least 14, but less than 15 litres per 100km: $2000
At least 15, but less than 16 litres per 100km: $3000
16 or more litres per 100km: $4000.

REMEMBER: You’re taxed on the entire value of the car, including the aforementioned fees.

Follow through to our Printable STEP-BY-STEP Checklist for Crossing the Border:

Coming Soon…

INADMISSIBLE VEHICLES:

Toyota: The 2000 SC400/300

Suzuki: See Import Page. Many Vehicles are Inadmissible.

Subaru: Certain 1995 and All 1996 Subaru’s are Inadmissible.

Sterling: All Sterling Cars are Inadmissible.

Porsche: Many 1997 and 1998′s are inadmissible.

Mercedes-Benz: 1995 300D, 300E, E320, 400E, 500Es. All 1995-1999 C-Class Models. 1996-1999 E-Class Models. 1998 and 1999 CLK-Class Coupe Models. 2000-2009 CLK63 Black Series Models and S500s with Guard Package. 1995-1999 All S-Class Models.

Maserati: Many Maserati Models are Inadmissible.

Lotus: Many Lotus Models are Inadmissible (if you’re buying a Lotus and reading this page, maybe you can throw a couple bucks this way)

Lamborghini: This will get expensive. Lamborghini URGES you to contact them at compliance@lamborghini.ca to get an estimate. All work must be done by a licensed Lamborghini Canada retailer before they pony up your Recall Clearance letter.

KIA: Many KIA vehicles are inadmissible.

General Motors / Saturn: Many Cheverolets will require the standard EOS, running lights ad child-tether, but all are inadmissable.

Ford, Lincoln and Mercury: Standard Treatment. Only certain Shelby’s are inadmissible.

Ferrari: Ferrari’s in the last 10 years are good-to-go. Older Ferrari’s may require Child Tether treatment. Contact Ferrari: 1-201-816-2600.

Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Eagle and Jeep: 1995 Lebaron Sedan, 1995 Shadow / Sundance if equipped with a passive restraint system. 1995 Spirit/Acclaim and 1995 & 196 Dodge Viper Roadsters. The 1996 Viper couple with DUAL airbags, IS ADMISSIBLE.

Audi: 1995 S6 Wagon and Wagon Quattro. 1995, 96 and 97 A6 Wagons and Wagon Quattros. 1998 A6 Wagon and Wagon Quattros.

Why Would You Ever Want To Buy A Car Online?

Filed under Featured, The First Step: Signing Up by staff on March 25, 2010 at 5:54 pm {no comments}

Almost everyone that ends up on has at some point, placed a bid and maybe even won an auction on the original eBay site. If you haven’t, it’s probably a very good idea to get a feel for the marketplace before advancing to . Remember, you’re entering into a legally binding contract. Your lack of knowledge and experience isn’t an acceptable excuse and a poor transaction may haunt your feedback and even credit for years.

So with all of the things that can go wrong with an internet sale, why even bother?

Money, Money, Money.

Here are a few simple rules to access before diving into the deep-end:

Unless you’re saving money, eBay Motors isn’t the place for you.
You should be saving around 15% or at least $500 dollars from the lowest price you can finagle out of the dealership.
If you protect yourself, eBay Motors transactions are quite safe. However, the time and effort associated with recouping your losses in the case of a bad transaction, necessitates that you save money over the dealership price.

What’s Required To Sign Up For eBay Motors Canada?

It’s always a good idea to test-drive a new car before buying, so why not test-drive eBay Motors? This is what you’ll need in order to sign up for :

YOUR CONTACT INFORMATION:

Your full name, email address, home phone and address are all required. It is imperative that these are answered correctly and all up to date.

USER ACCOUNT SETTINGS:

You’ll need to choose a user-name and password.

Remember: Choose a password that contains letters, numbers and a mix of upper and lower case characters. Your dog’s name, birth date or phone-number is not a password. Instead, I’d recommend finding a book that you’ll never throw out and circling a page number, along with 8 other random characters from that page with a sharpie. A quick flip through the book will reveal your password as 34ApDaIIbP — If the book is stolen or lost, the odds are slim that the burglar would be able to piece your information together.

YOUR SECRET QUESTION:

In the case your password gets lost, you’ll need the address information above along with the answer to this secret question. As many friends, family, and colleagues will have your personal information; IT IS IMPERATIVE that the answer to this question be known to only a select few.

What street did you grow up on?
What is mother’s maiden name?
What is your maternal grandmothers name?
What is your first girlfriend/boyfriend’s last name?
What is the name of your first school?
What is your pet’s name?

The choice is up to you, but try to walk the line between something you’ll remember and something no one else will be able to guess.

In the next article, we’ll discuss the complicated stuff — understanding the additional costs associated with purchasing a car online and estimating your complete bill.

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